No, not *another* how to on Cartridge Pleating. There are literally dozen’s of how to’s for this particular technique. What I wanted to know, was where does it come from? Wikipedia has it popular during the 15th and 16th Centuries and making a resurgence in popularity during the 1840’s. Which is all true, as far as that goes. But not really helpful in explaining this:
Images are from the SCA China Facebook page, where an enquiring seamstress wanted to know if her eyes deceived her. And all of the skilled seamstresses present agreed that that very much appears to be what we call Cartridge Pleating. On a 13th or 14th century Mongolian Robe…no where near Renaissance Europe, you might note.
Now, my time machine is in the shop, so I am unable to ACTUALLY confirm with the original tailor that that is, yes, cartridge pleating. And what every single one of those tutorials above lists is how cartridge pleats are made: Run two or more rows of evenly spaced basting stitches parallel to each other, then pull them up to create the gather before hand stitching them to the waistband. Which sounds an awful lot like: “Two rows of tightly-sewn stitches hold these pleats in place, and then the bodice is connected to the upper stitched line.” That description is from a book called Traditional Korean Costume, and is describing a men’s coat excavated from the tomb of Yi Hwang.
Now, for those who dislike following links, Yi Hwang was a Confucion scholar who lived from 1501-1570. This is certainly falls within the 16th century zone when cartridge pleats were known to exist. But there is no smoking gun connecting European tailoring techniques to Asian tailoring techniques. Silk and other textiles were widely traded on the silk road. But it was the uncut goods that were traded, not finished garments, like we have today. If we can believe Korea had cartridge pleating the in 16th century, is it impossible to believe Mongolia had it in the 13th century?
Even if you don’t believe the Mongolian hordes are capable of great refinement, they were certainly capable of raiding it from other cultures which they defeated and then folded in to the Mongolian Empire. Which became the Yuan Dynasty upon Khublai Kahn’s inheritance of the title of Great Kahn. Yet the hubris of mankind has all of us who do European costuming believing that cartridge pleating was the sole provenance of Europe. I’ve even heard that the name Cartridge Pleating is from pleating the fabric over a bullet casing or cartridge. However, there is a SERIOUS flaw in that logic. Cartridge pleating existed in the 16th century. Yet the first actual Cartridge for firearms wasn’t invented until 1845. Paper cartridges existed for muskets as early as the 14th century, but would have been VERY expensive and not likely used in tailor’s shops.
But wait! How can you know paper cartridges wouldn’t have been used in tailors shops? Because paper cartridges were filled with gun powder. And why would you want something easily combustible, a hot military item, closely controlled by the government, in a shop filled with flammable cloth? One slight accident and you lose EVERYTHING. Who would risk that? A more likely explanation is that gauging was in use for many centuries. When firearms became the hot new thing for up and coming nobility to own, enterprising tailors everywhere began calling the technique cartridge pleating to cash in on the military fervor of the day.
Again, my time machine is broken, so this is all speculation. But it’s my belief that any method of gathering large quantities of material was widely available to tailors the globe over. Much like many cultures simultaneously figured out the art of spinning and weaving, they all figured out gathering quite handily. And gauging pleats were a lovely way to show off a tailor’s craftsmanship and technique. At least, that’s the way I’m going to tell it.