Going alphabetically, batiste de soie is the way to start with silk weaves. The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles lists Batiste de Soie as “a sheer silk fabric, plain or figured, resembling silk mull (p. 48).”
Batiste is itself a weaving technique, named after the 13th century linen weaver Jean Baptiste. Batiste pulls directly from his name, with this particular fabric translating as “batiste of silk.” Batiste was originally a very fine, diaphanous fabric, most commonly these days woven in cotton or poly/cotton blends. But it can be found in silk! In All About Silk, author Julie Parker says “it is similar in weight and hand to china silk, but authentic batiste is more tightly woven, more lustrous, and of better quality (p. 14).
Here, I disagree with Ms. Parker. My disagreement is a wholly practical matter, having to do with history. Fragments of plain woven silk have been found in Henan Province, China, dating to 3500 BCE. Frankly speaking, China had a jump start on European silk weaving of nearly 4000 years. It was another 800 years after that (the 13th Century) before Jean Baptiste even invented his light weaving technique. To say that the French weave silk better than the Chinese simply because they are French is, to me, illogical. Simply put, the Chinese do their cultural heritage (silk weaving) better than the French do.
Now, this is not to say the French don’t weave some gorgeous silks (hello….Lyons? The 18th Century?) But for a plain weave silk, I do prefer China Silk (and not just because we sell it.) It’s that the differences listed in Parker’s book are superficial. She lists that China silk is “available in a wide range of colors, while Batiste de Soie is bleached white or dyed pastel shades.” Truly, if handed a piece of 8MM Batiste de Soie and 8MM China Silk, both in white, you would not be able to tell the difference…well, possibly with a microscope. Both are light weight, plain woven, and reversible. And ultimately, there is that 4000 year head start on the rest of the world when it comes to silk weaving that leaves China as the true king of this craft. And quality is so often a matter of opinion.