Among the many projects I have ongoing in connection to Damask Raven is a new wardrobe. Like many people, I tend to have the wardrobe items I favor and wear over and over again, typically for many years, until they either fall apart, or I out grow them.
So decided to make a video of my sewing process. First up was a new skirt. And in keeping with my own preference for looser clothing with a little flare, I opted to start with Simplicity Pattern 8019.
The first choice was which of the many silks available to me did I want to use? I opted for Silk Satin, and because I wanted a little body to my skirt, I opted to flat line it with Silk Organza. In addition to providing flare to the otherwise languid silk satin, by flat lining with silk organza, I am testing a theory about seam slippage. I think that the organza will add just enough heft and durability to the seams to avoid slippage. And the only way to see if I’m right is to make the skirt, and wear it a lot. We’ll see.
On to construction. Due to how light the individual filaments are, silk can fray quite a bit. So the first thing I did after cutting out was to serge the lining to the fashion pieces. This cuts down fraying to none at all and allows for easier construction. Also allows me to press the seams open in stead of to the sides, which cuts bulk at the waist line. The other glorious part of flat lining with organza is that I did not need any iron on interfacing at all. Silk Organza is a FANTASTIC sew in interfacing, so there was no need for additional interfacing pieces to be cut.
Overall, I love how the skirt turned out; however there are a few things I would do differently. I would have cut the pieces a little longer so I had room to play with the hem line. As I plan to wear this skirt often for work, I couldn’t cut it to mini-skirt lengths. However, with my bodacious-ly curvy butt, I was hard pressed to keep the hem at a decent length. I also would have cut the organza shorter and brought of the fashion fabric for a blind hem stitch to the organza. I think the organza added to the difficulty in hemming by adding unneeded bulk at the hem line.
Things I learned specific to this skirt: How to very carefully create decorative button holes, like the ones I did use from Urban Threads. You don’t know the meaning of terror until you are on button hole number 5, the other 4 turned out perfectly, and your damn cat jumps on your sewing table
So here it is. 7 hours of work cut down and sped up to a 20 minute video showing all my hard efforts on this skirt.